Today’s photo is a really nice 1860 era CDV. Although we can’t tell the fabric used, it was likely a wool or wool blend as that was among the most common and durable fabrics available for dressmaking. Other fabrics were silk, silk blends, and some fabrics that are no longer produced. I’m not a textiles expert though. Anyway, the most common fabrics were wool, silk, wool-silk blends, silk-cotton blends, and again the others I am not super up to speed on.
We can tell this is an 1860s era photo from a few tells. One, the corners were cut – this is a flag right off the bat that the corners of the original card were square. People tended to cut them diagonally so they would go into photo albums more easily. Next, the borders on the image are a thick/thin combo. This was very popular from 1864 through the end of the decade. Third, the very full skirt and dropped shoulder seams of the dress. These are hallmarks of 1860s style dresses. She has a belt and a watch/watch chain showing. The sleeve adornment looks like something I saw in a fashion plate for later in the era. That combined with the borders becoming popular in 1864 suggests this is a later decade image. Also, I love the bright, open eyed expression of the subject, almost like she was startled a bit or perplexed by the process.
The photographer was Schoonmaker at 282 River St, Troy, NY.